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Sunday, December 25, 2011
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Tuesday, December 20, 2011
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Saturday, December 17, 2011
How to Clean Out a Basement Or Shower Floor Drain
For floor drains like those in basements and showers, a garden hose often is more effective than an auger if the blockage is far down. Remove the strainer from the drain. Attach the hose to a faucet (a threaded adapter is needed for a sink or lavatory faucet).
Push the hose into the drain and pack rags around it. While you hold the hose--and the rags--in the drain, have a helper turn the water alternately on full force and abruptly off. The surges of pressure should clear the blockage.
To get increased pressure you can buy, at a plumbing supply store, an inexpensive rubber device that resembles a nozzle and seals the hose in the drain better than rags. When the water is turned on, the device expands against the drainpipe so that the full force of water is directed into the drain.
Be sure never to leave a hose in any drain, though. If water pressure should drop suddenly and drastically--a rare but not impossible occurrence--sewage could be drawn back into the fresh water system.
To unclog a bathtub, unscrew the overflow plate and lift it up and out. Draw out the stopper and its linkage (note how the parts line up so you can put them back the same way). Close the overflow opening with rags or masking tape, then use a plunger to open the clog.
If that doesn't work, then run an auger through the tub overflow opening to reach the P trap, which serves both tub drain and overflow. Use the cranking back-and-forth movements of the auger to unclog the drain effectively.
Keep in mind that instead of a P trap, bathtubs in older hoses and apartments may have a so-called drum trap located at floor level alongside the tub. To get at it, unscrew the cover of the trap counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench. Remove the rubber gasket. Using a drain-and-trap auger, first search for a blockage in the lower pipe inside the drum. If you find no obstruction there, insert the auger in the upper pipe, which goes to the main drain.
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Sunday, December 11, 2011
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Thursday, December 8, 2011
Make a Rain Bucket in 3 Easy Steps
Rain buckets or rain-barrels are becoming more popular as the threat of global warming and droughts hit the headlines. They have been around for centuries as man has always tried to capture water from the sky for his crops.
Rain harvesting is something that every person should be doing as they begin their backyard gardens. During the Spring, rain is plentiful and not many people think about the impending summer months where rainfall becomes more scarce.
Making a simple rain bucket is easy to do, inexpensive and can be accomplished in less than an hour. The 3 fundamental areas of a rain harvesting system are: Collection, Storage and Distribution. Rain buckets will provide the water storage until it is distributed to your crops. There are many rain barrel designs that you can choose from to fit your needs. Some people will spend a hundred dollars for one from their local hardware store, others will make their own with a few simple tools and a basic level of carpentry skills.
Finding a suitable rain bucket is fairly easy to do. Many community organizations sponsor free rain barrel programs or will provide at minimum costs. You can also find sources of low cost rain barrels through the popular Craigslist or food manufacturers or bottling companies. Some will provide for free or a nominal cost. The type discussed in this article was a vinyl trash can from the local department store.
Tools and Materials:
1 - 32 Gallon Vinyl Trash can with Lid
1 - 1" PVC Male Hose Adapter
Drill with 1" Spade Bit
White Caulking Plumbers tape
Step 1. Finding a suitable location for your rain bucket is fairly simple. Most will rest underneath one or more of the downspouts coming from your roof. Since the roof has the largest surface area, it is common practice to place your rain bucket near the house or shed where the downspouts channel the water from the house. Once you have found a preferred location, measure and cut the downspout above or near the top end of the rain bucket. Typically, this is done by cutting off part of the down spout so that the end sits a bit higher than the bucket itself. Cut a hole in the shape of the downspout near the top end of the rain bucket. You must also cut and overflow hole about the same height on the other side. This will allow excess water to escape when the barrel is full.
Step 2. Next, drill a 1" hole about 3-4 inches from the bottom of the rain barrel. Using some common plumbers tape, wrap the threads of the adapter to keep water from leaking through the hole. Screw adapter from the inside so the threads are exposed to the outside of the Rain.
Step 3. Putting the pieces together. Insert the downspout pipe from the roof into the rain bucket and attach the overflow to the other side. Attach a garden hose to the bottom adapter and caulk around the gaps to ensure the unit is sealed. This is important as mosquitoes would love to nest in your rain barrel. Once everything is connected, fill with water and test. The pressure from the amount of water contained inside the rain bucket will allow you to water your plants without much difficulty.
In summary, you can make a Rain Bucket for the cost of a vinyl trashcan, a hose adapter and some caulk. It is an easy way to begin conserving water to provide your garden with water when rainfall has become less available in the summer months. Since the water had been collected and stored from the previous rainstorms, you will not have to worry about the bill.
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Saturday, December 3, 2011
Little Giant 6-CIA, 1/3 HP, 45 GPM - Automatic Submersible Sump Pump, 10' power cord (506168)
!±8± Little Giant 6-CIA, 1/3 HP, 45 GPM - Automatic Submersible Sump Pump, 10' power cord (506168)
Post Date : Dec 03, 2011 12:36:06 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
"BIG JOHN" SUBMERSIBLE SUMP PUMP For residential and light commercial use, the 1/3 HP automatic submersible sump pump provides efficient and reliable service. Pump has a 1 1/2" discharge with an 18' maximum head. Cast iron motor housing is oil-filled for lifetime lubrication and excellent heat dissipation. Polycarbonate cover and polypropylene volute-base. 3/10 Hp, 115 Volt, 10' Power Cord Screened inlet Epoxy coated cast iron motor housing for corrosion and rust resistance Oil filled motor housing for lifetime lubrication and rapid heat dissipation Stainless steel screws, bolts, and handle Mechanical seals (stainless steel spring, nitrile parts, carbon and ceramic faces) Automatic operation with pressure switch operates pump when water level is between 7" and 10". Pump shuts off when water level falls to between 1" and 4". (Pressure switch is non-adjustable) Thermal overload protection Specifications : Horsepower - 1/3 Flow - 2750 GPH @ 5' of Head Cord Length - 10' Shut Off - 18' Voltage - 115 Hertz - 50/60 Amps - 9 Watts - 720 Weight - 17.5 lbs. Height - 6" Width - 8.5" Length - 9.5"
- 3/10 Hp, 115 Volt, 10' Power Cord
- Screened inlet
- Epoxy coated cast iron motor housing for corrosion and rust resistance
- Oil filled motor housing for lifetime lubrication and rapid heat dissipation
- Stainless steel screws, bolts, and handle
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Waterbed Mattress - Filling and Draining
Waterbed Mattress Filling
Lay out your water mattress inside your safety liner with the valve at the foot. If this is a pre-filled water mattress avoid the shifting of the baffling system by holding both the outer vinyl and the baffling system as you unfold it. Remove wrinkles at the bottom and center your water mattress in your frame. NOTE that centering your mattress is very important to the way it sleeps and it's usable life. Align the corner of the water mattress with your frame corners. If your safety liner or heating pad has shifted reposition them now. Now you're ready to fill.
From your bathroom sink faucet, remove the aerator by unscrewing it (if your bathroom faucet doesn't have an aerator, you will have to fill from your kitchen sink or an outside faucet.) Attach the faucet connector that you purchased with your waterbed and then your hose to it. Make a tight fit to avoid leakage (place a towel around the faucet to avoid any spray that could occur). To help eliminate unclean water, flush the hose by running your water for 10 minutes before filling your bed. Attach the mattress adapter to your hose. Insert it into the "popped-up" valve and screw down securely.
Wrap a towel around the valve to soak up any unavoidable spillage. Fill the water mattress approximately 1/2" below the level of the side rails (you may want to burp your mattress when the mattress is about half filled to get a accurate fill level.) Burp the mattress after finishing the fill process by moving the air bubbles from top down to the the open valve with a broom handle. Shake the mattress and if any sloshing noise is heard repeat the burping process. Add your conditioner and cap off your valve returning it to it's down position.
Water naturally gives off oxygen so at the present of sloshing in your mattress you may want to burp it it that time. Local water condition and the periodic use of conditioner greatly effects the oxidation. Now you may dress your bed with mattress pad and sheets. A mattress pad is important to the quality of sleep you get as it allow your skin to breath.
Waterbed Mattress Draining
1) Burp as much air as possible out of the mattress. Unplug your heater. Start by attaching your hose to the mattress with the fitting that screws onto the valve of the mattress. Push the valve of the mattress along with the hose that is attached to it back down into the down position. Place a 10 to 15 pound object on top of the valve of the mattress.
2) A gravity drain will only work if you are draining to a place lower than the level of the bed. Water doesn't flow up. Run your hose to a tub/shower stall, toilet or down stairs and out the front door.
3) At the end of the hose take a couple of quick sucks to get the water flowing. You don't need to take in a mouth full of water to get the water flow started.
4) A gravity drain should take anywhere from an hour to two hours depending on the size of your bed and how far your hose is dropping. If you have a wave reduced mattress this is where you'll need some help from a Shop Vac or Wet/Dry Vac. The water is retained in the insert that makes the mattress wave reduced. By simply using the vacuum you will extract the balance of the water out of the mattress. After you extract the last container full of water, you'll cap off the mattress as quickly as possible so as to not allow any air back into the mattress. Folding Continued
5) You should end up with a mattress that weighs between 20-50 pounds and is also vacuum packed into the smallest package possible. This also keeps the insert inside from shifting once you pick up the mattress. Then simply fold the mattress into thirds from head to toe and then once in half (width ways).
A "Venturi Pump" uses the pressure from your faucet to draw the water out of your bed. Most Venturi pumps have a "Bell" type bottom which turns clockwise to have water flow into your mattress when the water pressure is on or, counter clockwise clockwise which opens the bottom of the venturi pump. The water rushing down through the small neck of the pump creates a suction thus drawing water out of your bed. The water pressure must remain on for the pump to work. We suggest a gravity drain with a Wet Dry Vac when conditions merit. It is a lot more effective and conserves water.
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Wayne Water Systems VIP50 1/2 HP 2,500 GPH Submersible Utility Water Pump
!±8± Wayne Water Systems VIP50 1/2 HP 2,500 GPH Submersible Utility Water Pump
This unique Wayne utility pump passes 1/2in. solids such as leaves, pebbles, and other debris without clogging. 1 1/4in. discharge is adaptable to garden hose thread with rotating adapter (included). HP: 1/2, Flow (GPH): 2,500, Volts: 115, Max. Total Head (ft.): 15, Suction Type: Bottom, Discharge Port (in.): 1 1/4, Pump Housing: Glass reinforced thermoplastic, Volute: Glass reinforced thermoplastic, Impeller Shaft: Glass reinforced thermoplastic, Solid Handling (in.): 1/2, Power Cord (ft.): 8, Thermal Overload Protection: Yes, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 6 3/4 x 6 3/4 x 10
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Monday, November 21, 2011
Little Giant 5.5-ASP Submersible Sump Pump
!±8± Little Giant 5.5-ASP Submersible Sump Pump
Post Date : Nov 21, 2011 22:52:50 | Usually ships in 24 hours
Automatic, 1/4 HP sump pump. 1-1/4" FNPT discharge. Includes garden hose adapter and removable inlet screen for easy cleaning. Lifetime oil supply. Pump operates in 7" to 10" depth of water and shuts off at 2"-5". For use in basement sumps and other general wastewater removal.
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Sunday, November 6, 2011
Contech 300000408 WaterDog Automatic Outdoor Pet Drinking Fountain
!±8± Contech 300000408 WaterDog Automatic Outdoor Pet Drinking Fountain
Post Date : Nov 06, 2011 15:19:11 | Usually ships in 24 hours
- Your dog will always have fresh clean water
- WaterDog will ensure your dog can always help itself to fresh clean and healthy water whenever it likes
- Sonar proximity sensor automatically turns the water on when your dog is within 3' and off again when your dog walks away
- Never worry again about stagnant, unhealthy or empty water bowls
- Installs easily on any outdoor faucet
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Contech 300000408 WaterDog Automatic Outdoor Pet Drinking Fountain
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