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Sunday, December 25, 2011
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Tuesday, December 20, 2011
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Saturday, December 17, 2011
How to Clean Out a Basement Or Shower Floor Drain
For floor drains like those in basements and showers, a garden hose often is more effective than an auger if the blockage is far down. Remove the strainer from the drain. Attach the hose to a faucet (a threaded adapter is needed for a sink or lavatory faucet).
Push the hose into the drain and pack rags around it. While you hold the hose--and the rags--in the drain, have a helper turn the water alternately on full force and abruptly off. The surges of pressure should clear the blockage.
To get increased pressure you can buy, at a plumbing supply store, an inexpensive rubber device that resembles a nozzle and seals the hose in the drain better than rags. When the water is turned on, the device expands against the drainpipe so that the full force of water is directed into the drain.
Be sure never to leave a hose in any drain, though. If water pressure should drop suddenly and drastically--a rare but not impossible occurrence--sewage could be drawn back into the fresh water system.
To unclog a bathtub, unscrew the overflow plate and lift it up and out. Draw out the stopper and its linkage (note how the parts line up so you can put them back the same way). Close the overflow opening with rags or masking tape, then use a plunger to open the clog.
If that doesn't work, then run an auger through the tub overflow opening to reach the P trap, which serves both tub drain and overflow. Use the cranking back-and-forth movements of the auger to unclog the drain effectively.
Keep in mind that instead of a P trap, bathtubs in older hoses and apartments may have a so-called drum trap located at floor level alongside the tub. To get at it, unscrew the cover of the trap counterclockwise with an adjustable wrench. Remove the rubber gasket. Using a drain-and-trap auger, first search for a blockage in the lower pipe inside the drum. If you find no obstruction there, insert the auger in the upper pipe, which goes to the main drain.
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Sunday, December 11, 2011
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Thursday, December 8, 2011
Make a Rain Bucket in 3 Easy Steps
Rain buckets or rain-barrels are becoming more popular as the threat of global warming and droughts hit the headlines. They have been around for centuries as man has always tried to capture water from the sky for his crops.
Rain harvesting is something that every person should be doing as they begin their backyard gardens. During the Spring, rain is plentiful and not many people think about the impending summer months where rainfall becomes more scarce.
Making a simple rain bucket is easy to do, inexpensive and can be accomplished in less than an hour. The 3 fundamental areas of a rain harvesting system are: Collection, Storage and Distribution. Rain buckets will provide the water storage until it is distributed to your crops. There are many rain barrel designs that you can choose from to fit your needs. Some people will spend a hundred dollars for one from their local hardware store, others will make their own with a few simple tools and a basic level of carpentry skills.
Finding a suitable rain bucket is fairly easy to do. Many community organizations sponsor free rain barrel programs or will provide at minimum costs. You can also find sources of low cost rain barrels through the popular Craigslist or food manufacturers or bottling companies. Some will provide for free or a nominal cost. The type discussed in this article was a vinyl trash can from the local department store.
Tools and Materials:
1 - 32 Gallon Vinyl Trash can with Lid
1 - 1" PVC Male Hose Adapter
Drill with 1" Spade Bit
White Caulking Plumbers tape
Step 1. Finding a suitable location for your rain bucket is fairly simple. Most will rest underneath one or more of the downspouts coming from your roof. Since the roof has the largest surface area, it is common practice to place your rain bucket near the house or shed where the downspouts channel the water from the house. Once you have found a preferred location, measure and cut the downspout above or near the top end of the rain bucket. Typically, this is done by cutting off part of the down spout so that the end sits a bit higher than the bucket itself. Cut a hole in the shape of the downspout near the top end of the rain bucket. You must also cut and overflow hole about the same height on the other side. This will allow excess water to escape when the barrel is full.
Step 2. Next, drill a 1" hole about 3-4 inches from the bottom of the rain barrel. Using some common plumbers tape, wrap the threads of the adapter to keep water from leaking through the hole. Screw adapter from the inside so the threads are exposed to the outside of the Rain.
Step 3. Putting the pieces together. Insert the downspout pipe from the roof into the rain bucket and attach the overflow to the other side. Attach a garden hose to the bottom adapter and caulk around the gaps to ensure the unit is sealed. This is important as mosquitoes would love to nest in your rain barrel. Once everything is connected, fill with water and test. The pressure from the amount of water contained inside the rain bucket will allow you to water your plants without much difficulty.
In summary, you can make a Rain Bucket for the cost of a vinyl trashcan, a hose adapter and some caulk. It is an easy way to begin conserving water to provide your garden with water when rainfall has become less available in the summer months. Since the water had been collected and stored from the previous rainstorms, you will not have to worry about the bill.
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Saturday, December 3, 2011
Little Giant 6-CIA, 1/3 HP, 45 GPM - Automatic Submersible Sump Pump, 10' power cord (506168)
!±8± Little Giant 6-CIA, 1/3 HP, 45 GPM - Automatic Submersible Sump Pump, 10' power cord (506168)
Post Date : Dec 03, 2011 12:36:06 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days
"BIG JOHN" SUBMERSIBLE SUMP PUMP For residential and light commercial use, the 1/3 HP automatic submersible sump pump provides efficient and reliable service. Pump has a 1 1/2" discharge with an 18' maximum head. Cast iron motor housing is oil-filled for lifetime lubrication and excellent heat dissipation. Polycarbonate cover and polypropylene volute-base. 3/10 Hp, 115 Volt, 10' Power Cord Screened inlet Epoxy coated cast iron motor housing for corrosion and rust resistance Oil filled motor housing for lifetime lubrication and rapid heat dissipation Stainless steel screws, bolts, and handle Mechanical seals (stainless steel spring, nitrile parts, carbon and ceramic faces) Automatic operation with pressure switch operates pump when water level is between 7" and 10". Pump shuts off when water level falls to between 1" and 4". (Pressure switch is non-adjustable) Thermal overload protection Specifications : Horsepower - 1/3 Flow - 2750 GPH @ 5' of Head Cord Length - 10' Shut Off - 18' Voltage - 115 Hertz - 50/60 Amps - 9 Watts - 720 Weight - 17.5 lbs. Height - 6" Width - 8.5" Length - 9.5"
- 3/10 Hp, 115 Volt, 10' Power Cord
- Screened inlet
- Epoxy coated cast iron motor housing for corrosion and rust resistance
- Oil filled motor housing for lifetime lubrication and rapid heat dissipation
- Stainless steel screws, bolts, and handle